Regenerative Fashion book review.
Regenerative Fashion: A Nature-Based Approach to Fibres, Livelihoods and Leadership, a book by Safia Minney published by Laurence King in 2022, presents a roadmap for new ways of doing fashion. Rather than continuing to extract, it is possible to restore what has been taken with a systemic shift against “business as usual”.
In this post I direct you to particularly intriguing case studies from the book, as encouragement to dive into it yourself. Whether you’re a brand or an everyday citizen, we all wear clothes, and understanding the bigger picture of the effect our choices have can only serve to support our survival.
Regenerative Fashion: A Nature-Based Approach to Fibres, Livelihoods and Leadership book by Safia Minney.
Regenerative Fashion presents a roadmap for new ways of doing fashion.
Part guide and part manifesto, this book shares stories of our interconnectedness with the natural world and each other, divided into sections on Nature & Materials; People, Livelihoods & Crafts; and New Economy & Leadership. Fully illustrated throughout, it features interviews from best-practice designers and businesses around the world, as well as thought pieces from leading campaigners working in the fashion industry.
What is regenerative fashion?
First up, let’s unpick this term.
A relatively newly-coined phrase, the “regenerative” in regenerative fashion speaks to shifting mindsets about what our planet and its people actually need.
With updates to the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) reports extolling that we must restrict global warming to 1.5˚C above pre-industrial levels before 2050, it is clear that we are getting rapidly closer to that mark.
The IPCC Report + regeneration.
Human activities, principally through emissions of greenhouse gases, have unequivocally caused global warming, with global surface temperature reaching 1.1°C above 1850–1900 in 2011–2020. Every increment of global warming will intensify multiple and concurrent hazards.
The report assesses that “limiting human-caused global warming requires net zero CO2 emissions”, but, “if warming exceeds a specified level such as 1.5°C, it could gradually be reduced again by achieving and sustaining net negative global CO2 emissions”.
This is where a regenerative approach comes in.
Under the segment of ‘responses’ in the AR6 Synthesis Report (March 2023), the report recommends:
Prioritising equity, climate justice, social justice, inclusion and just transition processes can enable adaptation and ambitious mitigation actions and climate resilient development. Adaptation outcomes are enhanced by increased support to regions and people with the highest vulnerability to climatic hazards. Integrating climate adaptation into social protection programs improves resilience. Many options are available for reducing emission-intensive consumption, including through behavioural and lifestyle changes, with co-benefits for societal well-being.
Now, if we consider the effects of fashion on the land, water and people, it is ultimately destructive. It takes and gives back only materials and resources that are no longer suitable for their original intent, so destroying local economies, waterways, air quality, soil health, animal welfare and general human health.
“Regenerative fashion offers new ways of doing fashion. It has a basis not only in regenerative agriculture but also in systemic thinking that allows companies to operate as part of a wider ‘ecosystem’.” ~ Regenerative Fashion, page 10.
Here are some organisations calling for fashion to step in line with climate change mitigation:
At COP26 in 2021, the UN Fashion Charter called for companies to cut emissions by 50% by 2030 and for fashion communications to be brought in line with the 1.5˚C pathway.
Prior to this, in 2020, “academics Kate Fletcher and Mathilda Tham used IPCC statistics to estimate that the global fashion industry must reduce the use of virgin resources by 75% by 2030” [Regenerative Fashion, page 10].
Additionally, in 2021 the British Fashion Council urged governments and retailers to work towards halving consumer demand by 50% to reduce waste [Circular Fashion Ecosystem Report, September 2021].
In order to revive communities and land affected by climate change, which are directly impacted by the fashion and textiles industry, then there needs to be an holistic, respectful approach in every area of the supply and value chains.
Safia Minney’s book provides you the underpinning arguments for why regenerative fashion is the only way business should be, along with case studies to help you envision what the industry could look like, and indeed how it is already improving.
In this next part of the post, I’ll introduce you to the three main chapters of the book, and give a taste of the stories and thoughts included.
Images: Regenerative Fashion: A Nature-Based Approach to Fibres, Livelihoods and Leadership book internal cover and contents.
Nature and materials.
“Regeneration begins by reducing what we take from our natural world and the pollution with which we burden it.”
This chapter starts with Safia’s journey to implementing a better production system for brand People Tree, than was at the time in existence for the rest of the garment industry. People Tree subsequently developed the first Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified cotton product from field to closet. At that time — in 1995 — it was known that 1 acre of organic agriculture sequestered approximately 1 tonne of CO2 per year. With improved farming practices and measurement across soil health, crop diversity, integrating livestock, maintaining living roots year-round, and minimising soil disturbance, it’s what we now refer to as “regenerative agriculture” — an organic+ method of agriculture.
“Currently, two-thirds of all fabrics are derived from fossil fuels, as are the majority of dyes, prints and fabric finishes.”
Our reliance on cheap synthetics has allowed today’s fast fashion model. So this chapter helps the reader consider the alternative — natural materials. A reversion to what we used to know, in terms of natural fibres’ wearable properties, regeneration of the land, safety for people, and reintroduction of lost skills.
Segments highlight why we should care about natural materials over synthetics and include:
Localism — Regenerative fashion means looking at what can be sourced, produced and sold locally. It isn’t simply the garment itself, but the economies in and around it.
Wool — a natural material with controversy, due to figures of greenhouse gases and land degeneration from sheep. But here is noted ways where sheep farming, with wool as a valuable product, can be regenerative for land and livelihoods.
Biodiversity — Land under indigenous ownership has been noted to be in ‘good ecological condition’ according to the UN World Conservation Monitoring Centre, so in order to regenerate, indigenous peoples need to be recognised as the biodiversity custodians they are.
Lab vs. land — monocultures are what we mostly have, with land deforested to make way for more in an attempt to reduce single use plastic with “natural” materials. Is a shift to lab-grown materials the way forward?
Designing — Caterina Midby, Secretary General of the Swedish Fashion Association, explained that 80% of a garment’s sustainability is determined at the design stage. How can designers be informed advocates for a new design framework?
Some case study highlights:
Frameworks — Textile Exchange educate a global community of brands, manufacturers and growers towards purposeful production through adoption of practices that improve biodiversity, soil health and water quality, along with reducing emissions. They’re a highlight because they note how Life Cycle Assessments are a good starting point, but misrepresent certain parts of the chain as they don’t look holistically. SEKEM is an Egyptian organisation with subsidiaries, one of which is NatureTex, sustainably developing desert land into fertile soil through such practices as biodynamic organic agriculture. The case study gives insight into land use in Egypt and how a community framework can build regenerative livelihoods.
Brands — Oshadi promote ancient Indian agricultural practices and artisan heritage, working with farmers to grow regenerative cotton for their womenswear. The premise is that regenerative farming is ancient knowledge, so it’s a case of building relationships with farmers to improve practices. Their fabrics are supplied to other brands, alongside being used for production of their own styles. Tengri are another brand that focus on relationship building and promotion to improve the livelihoods of nomadic farmers, and improve the system overally for luxury hair fibres including cashmere, yak, vicuña and alpaca.
Innovations — I’m pleased that alternative fibres were included to cover the whole gamut of what “natural” can be, though I’m always going to be sceptical of materials grown in labs that really do nothing to regenerate the outside world, apart from perhaps shifting consumption away from synthetics. Bolt Threads is one of those innovation companies, and is an interesting case study for their focus on animal alternatives, including silk and leather. Another highlighted case study is AlgiKnit (now Keel Labs) who are farming kelp to turn it into a fibre. With both of these there are still limited commercial applications, and they seem to all be blended with other fibres anyway.
There’s also case studies from South East England Fibreshed, The Sustainable Angle trade show, business network engine Common Objective, wool supplier H. Dawson Wool, and thoughts from Professor Kate Fletcher, Bel Jacobs (climate justice activist) and Clare Farrell (co-founder of Extinction Rebellion).
Images: 1. Chapter page: Nature and Materials; 2. Case Study: South East England Fibreshed; 3. Case Study: AlgiKnit.
People, livelihoods and crafts.
“Whenever we buy, or try to buy, cheap goods… remember we are stealing somebody’s labour … taking from him the proper reward of his work, and putting it into our own pocket.” ~ John Ruskin, Unto This Last, 1860
The premise of this chapter considers how we must cut production in the fashion industry by 75% or more (as explained above), yet this would involve job loss across the supply chain — from farms to shops. Therefore, alongside a commitment to regenerating the environment, there must also be a commitment to regenerate livelihoods, skills and communities.
Introductory segments highlight the ways in which this regeneration could occur, and include:
Eradicating modern slavery — a great overview of what modern slavery is and what it looks like in the fashion industry, with a specific consideration for the effect of Covid-19 and catastrophic ongoing impacts of climate change.
Improving the supply chain and buying practices — this part introduces systemic thinking and how short, transparent supply chains are necessary in order to regenerate economies, yet would have beneficial impacts felt elsewhere, as highlighted by the UN’s 17 Sustainable Development Goals.
Valuing crafts — a case study heavy section that provides evidence on feasability of handcrafted products, referring not only to the producers themselves, but mid-range and luxury brands who utilise artisans’ skills to further embed commercial viability of craft-based production.
Developing legislation — with the Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013, there has been galvanisation for legislation to be drawn up to protect livelihoods of those across the fashion supply chain, but this is slow work, and it continuously needs attending to.
Updating skills — with requirements that we cut production, there needs to be an improvement to infrastructure for the circular economy i.e. recycling, and so there needs to be investment in training for these new skills. The section also considers the upskilling of those under slave labour, so linking to the above on development and enforcement of legislation.
Some case study highlights:
Legislation — the Fair Wear Foundation focuses on the Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) part of the fashion supply chain, as this is arguably the most labour-intensive. They’re a multistakeholder initiative that you may have seen labelled on your ethical garments, with solely brands as members who require due diligence services to assure their supply chain meets living wage, gender equality and freedom of association targets (for lack of a better descriptor). The case study highlights the Foundation’s plans and partnerships that show the necessity of industry collaboration.
There are also thoughts from the Asia Floor Wage Alliance regarding power shifts that will ensure a just transition — “You need a paradigm that takes into consideration the strengthening of the human rights of workers because they are also consumers.” ~ Anannya Bhattacharjee. And thoughts too from War on Want, again relating to consumption, in particular that those who produce most are not those who consume most — “Half the world needs to increase its consumption of things like clothing, housing and transport just to be able to live without poverty.” ~ Asad Rehman.
Brands — Birdsong were an exemplary social enterprise with each element of their womenswear business consciously crafted, including the training of East London locals, refugees and migrants. They ceased trading as the existing business model since the book was launched, but are relaunching in April 2023. Bethany Williams is an eponymous clothing label that also runs as a social enterprise, collaborating with organisations and charities to support local communities, particularly women, to tell the virtues of intersecting craft with social care. The garments are ridiculously cool, and this case study explains the background behind them.
Producers — Five P Venture are an Indian producer that work exclusively with handweavers, to protect, preserve and promote local heritage, while bringing prosperity and posterity to the artisans. This case study gives insight to the issues facing handweaving studios in India, what handweaving benefits, and how Five P work with designers. Another producer keen to promote, protect and preserve is Khadi London who’s mission is to support designers to value craft and provenance. This case study considers decentralisation as key to a regenerative fashion future.
Other brands working to support artisans are also included in this section, along with thoughts from Professor Dilys Williams (Centre for Sustainable Fashion) and author Tansy E. Hoskins.
Images: 1. Chapter page: People, Livelihoods and Crafts; 2. Case study: Bethany Williams; 3. Case study: Five P Venture.
New economy and leadership.
Though the book is split into these three chapters for order, Safia explains that the systems being addressed are interconnected and complex. This is an important note for readers, because as she says,
“To function regeneratively, organizations must employ practices that allow them to respond as part of the living, ever-changing system in which they operate - practices based on how the world really works.”
This chapter considers the ecological and social crises brought about through extractive human activity. It uses economist Kate Raworth’s Doughnut Economics model as a framework for the alternative vision necessary to regenerate ourselves and our planet. Quite radically, this chapter calls for the discarding of GDP as a sole indicator of success in order to reduce inequalities in wealth, and therefore allow everyone to consume their fair share, but no more than that — as was mentioned by both War on Want and the Asia Floor Wage Alliance above.
To achieve this model where we meet our needs without exhausting the planet, segments looked at:
Pricing nature into garments — carbon pricing is the best-established tool for practicing a ‘true cost to nature’ product accounting, though so far, understanding how to price garments according to their cost to nature is limited, essentially because it’s so complex. Nature — and all its elements — becomes an asset. It’s an interesting consideration for brands (and producers) to address.
Regenerative leadership — “regenerative leaders need to be humble, collaborative and open to operating holistically”. Younger workers want to align their values with purpose-driven work, and require leaders who are authentic, don’t greenwash, and are proactive. This section considers how regenerative leadership can be implemented into organisations.
Corporate activism — similarly to regenerative leadership, corporate activism requires organisations to take a radical stand. It considers the bare minimum, such as Environmental Social Governance (ESG), but also how businesses can use their system shifts as evidence to others wondering about shifting.
New circular economy business models — the circular economy is a move away from the take-make-waste structure all industries currently have, and this section considers some approaches, such as resale, that are updating and embedding new business models that can slowly help us achieve circularity.
Transparency through technology — as part of a shift to circularity, there needs to be implementation and uptake of certain tech that will make it easier to monitor and follow products throughout the chain. Blockchain, cloud-based solutions, and certain Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) tools are pinpointed.
Localisation — this regards initiatives that have committed business practices that nourish the long-term cultural and economic health of the area in which they operate, with such case studies as Community Clothing and Fashion Enter. The reader is given the opportunity to reflect on the difference between a regenerative business model and a sustainable business model.
Some case study highlights:
Activism — operating at the intersection of environmental justice, education and fashion development, The OR Foundation works against human rights and environmental abuses, and is most notably steering policies and investments into reparations and safeguarding of Kantamanto market workers who are still dealing with colonial rule in Ghana through second-hand clothing being dumped there. Patagonia hold a large section of this book explaining their in-house activities to reimagine the fashion system, starting with their own business. Though a brand, they’re not steered to talk about clothing, and instead mostly give thoughts on how fashion can be an activist for change.
Circularity — Reverse Resources are a Software as a Service (SaaS) operator with a platform to connect apparel suppliers and post-consumer waste collectors so that each party understands how much waste is in the supply chain. They give insight into how much cutting room floor waste and fibre-to-garment production waste there could be, and so are both data capture and digital traceability for the waste streams. At the other end of the chain is Farfetch, a resale marketplace who exclusively retail brands who meet their ‘basic, good standards’ as a way to avoid lost sales, especially for small businesses. The case study shows how and why they operate as they do, which all makes it more understandable as a successful business model.
Brands — Elvis & Kresse make luxury accessories from decommissioned fire hoses, but again the asked questions were directed towards their net-zero plans, carbon emissions and scalability of their model - rather than the products themselves. This is in keeping with a chapter trying to uncover the possibilities for new economies and new ways to lead. I was a bit let down, in comparison, with Finisterre’s case study that highlighted how their ‘low impact’ and ‘preferred’ materials were from renewable and recycled sources. This just screams synthetics, and as you read on, you discover that this is the case. Of course with new economies comes a requirement for the synthetics of the world to go back into the system, and Finisterre for the most part do provide outdoorwear (namely their surf gear), but I still hold big issue with recycled synthetics being touted as sustainable.
This, however, is how useful the book is — it gives a rounded perspective of how the system could shift, because it is going to take all sorts.
Images: 1. Chapter page: New Economy and Leadership; 2. Case Study: The OR Foundation.
Fashion declares.
Safia Minney also established the bottom-up movement known as Fashion Declares, galvanising fashion leaders to create a radical shift in the industry through five key commitments:
Speaking out for urgent action
Decarbonisation and restoration of ecosystems and biodiversity
Social justice and the just transition
Radical transparency and corporate governance
The regenerative fashion model
Learn more about Fashion Declares and watch webinars on each of these topics.
Thank you for reading.
I shared this book — Regenerative fashion: A Nature-Based Approach to Fibres, Liveliehoods and Leadership by Safia Minney - simply because I enjoyed it and feel that it is valuable (I purchased it from Blackwell’s). Whether you’re new to the topic of regeneration — or even fashion — or have worked in the industry for sometime, this book provides guidance and inspiration. And as a wearer of clothes, educating yourself on issues surrounding environmental and social justice, transparency, traceability, and materials themselves, is a massive action you should be taking.
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